Day 181 Siam Reap Cambodia (Angkor Watt and Temples)

The third and final day of my visits to the temples I decided I just had to go back to the big fella Angkor Watt as days before I'd been that overawed I'd not taken it all in. THe alarm clock worked today and we set off at a respectable five am. Why so early again well April is the hottest month in Cambodia and by ten am its over forty five degrees.

There are not many petrol stations around and you see plenty of these roadside stands instead. Now there is good recylcing of a Johnnie Walker bottle for you!

At the temple I lit an incense stick for the day, bowed three times, made a wish for good health to everyone and bowed again.

The early light was fantastic and I took a wander around the forested grounds to some of the outer buildings where there was peace perfect peace.

Even if some were more stable than others.


With the sun still in the ascendancy we made our way to a number of other temples after chicken curry for breakfast. In Cambodia they focus on the flavour of the food rather than how hot it is. I just cannot stop eating here!


AFter breakfast I was glad the temples gave a wee acknowlegement to the heavy machinery used in construction. The terrace of elephants.

I'd been using my Cambodian words to much amusement of the locals. One kindly pointed out I was infact saying "No Yes" but they were pleased that I was trying and were keen to find out more about Scotland. They liked that we have four seasons rather than two. I think I asked this farmer "No Yes cows" rather than "Are these your cows".

After returning to Siam Reap I visited the post office to send clothes I'd bought from the traders home. The potmistress had no idea where Scotland was! Just as well Theuor translated.


Then back to the magnificent Siam Reap hostel for a swim before getting the rucksack ready for the journey to Vietnam tomorrow.

Day 180 Siam Reap Cambodia (Temples, Village Visit and Cambodian Landmine Fund)

An hours drive today out into the countryside to a small but arguably the most beautiful temple Bantreay Srei.

We set off in good time as the fifty pence alarm clock I'd bought yesterday went off an hour early.

Many of the carvings remain in good condition unlike other temples and each tells a story. Here we see Shiva sitting on his throne at the summit of Mount Kailasa while his terrified wife , Parvati, hovers near his left knee and clinging to his shoulder. Shiva prepares in an act of retaliation to bring the whole weight of the mountain on his enemy Ravana (who had tried to get into their house the week before but was stopped by the monkey guardian). Still with me?...Good I'll continue.....So the mountain falls on Ravana and crushes him. Ravana acknowledges Shivas power (lets face it we all would) and sings his praises for a 1000 years. As a reward Shiva sets him free and gives him a sword (eh?). The other figures you see are creatures, hermits and animals (strange combination) living on the mountain who express terror and flee to the jungle. Now just imagine how many carvings there are and you will realise how rich a culture the Khmers have.

After all that I stopped for pancakes (made in a sandwich machine ...flash) and pineapple. After more temples I had read about the Cambodian Landmine Museum Releif Fund and the amazing story of the museums owner Aki Ra man who personally has cleared 50000 mines in the past after being forced to lay them in the war. Often at the request of local villages. The museum is part of a co-operation with the Cnadian NGO working to reduce land mine casualties and rehabilitate the injured...often innocent children or farming folk.

If you want to learn more about this fascinating story and the fund please go to http://www.cambodianlandminemuseum.org/

As we were well out of the city I asked Theuor if he knew anyone in a local village as I'd like to meet the familys and see how they live. Theour knows lots of local people and we visited some. If you click on this picture you will see one of the villages chicken's time was up!

The palm trees are put to all kinds of uses. Here the leaves are being cut into strips for crafts. I was treated to the palm tree fruit which is super tasty. Especially if left in ice for a while.

Theuor explained the wells are often funded by local or foreign businesses and in some cases by well meaning individuals. Clean water is key to village life. What a great afternoon I was made so welcome and Theuor translated between us. Keen as ever to improve his already good English. A lot better than my Cambodian although after a crash course over pancakes this morning I'm now fluent in nine words! Tomorrow I will try them for real............

Day 179 Siam Reap Cambodia (Angkor Watt, Local Killing Fields and War Museum)

Thouer collected me at 5.30am and we made our way to Angkor Watt temple in time for sunrise. I'd read about the carvings at the temple and how no two faces are the same.

The sun was just waking up as I walked along the grand stone promenade that crosses the moat surrounding the temple.

Stood at the reflection pool a while.

Pretty soon the iconic images came into view and to think this marvel was built back in the 12th century.

Of course not everyone at the temple is quite so interested. Johnny and Murdo for example.

Then viited Bayon temple with buddah faces carved on all four sides of the many many towers.

After that even more temples including Ta Prohm which is engulfed by the jungle and where Tomb Raider and Indiana Jones were filmed.....step aside "Lara Croft" and "Indy"..."Prydey's here"in the feature film blockbuster "Search for the Tomb of The Golden Rucksack". Soon to be in all bins at Blockbuster priced twelve pence.

On a more serious note I then asked Theur (pronounced Tu) to then show me some history of the Pol Pot regime.

We arrived at this seemingly innocuous looking building until I got closer to the window .....

These are remains of innocent people killed in the nearby field under Pol Pots rule. Theuor told me how he lost his own father and talked me through the history boards at the memorial. Many innocent people were killed, often for simply being too educated.

The imagery was harrowing and Theuor pictured below took me across to the adjacent temple as I'd asked to learn a wee bit abiout buddism.

Theuor is a bhuddist and later became a Christian. He talked me through the huge paintings on the temple walls which tell the story of bhuddah from birth to death.

Then we went to the war museum to find out about the recent thirty years of war Cambodias people have endured. Our guide whose friends say has nine lives (shot twice, hit by mines four times and 60 percent blinded from a rocket launcher) told us and showed us the horrible weapons of war.

(trip wire mine)

I went back to the hostel a lot more informed on the cruelty of war than the sanatised distant version I've witnessed on television. An emotional day and I felt sorry for the suffering the Cambodian people have endured and the horror that is the millions of evil landmines that still leave a state of fear amongst the rural populations.

Day 178 Siam Reap Cambodia (Sunset at

Flight to Kuala Lumper went well and survived airport food. Then onto Siam Reap in Cambodia and no problem obtaining a visa on arrival...Phew!

Then onto Siam Reap hostel whose sign reads "A 5 Shoe Hostel (Self Rated)"......great place too.

My tuk tuk driver Mr Theur then whisked me off to Phnom Bakheng Temple to watch the sunset along with a few thousand other like minded souls.

Very busy and steep steps.

In amongst the circus this monk found peace....well till I asked for a picture and he seemed pleased...thats bhuddists for you. Kind souls.

Took the sunset and then returned on the tuk tuk to make ready for an early start tomorrow to see the mighty Angkor Watt temple.