Day 122 Auckland (Dave and Marge)

This is the mighty Dave Munro, hunter and fisher extrodinaire. We used to be in adjacent offices before I packed the rucksack to travel and at the time of setting off Dave and his wife Marge had mentioned they could well be in New Zealand at some point. With that we aimed to meet for lunch, as you do, some 12,000 miles away on the other side of the World.

Meet we eventually did and I was treated to a smashing meal. As we said our goodbyes I could not help thinking that Dave and Marge's trip which included the best of what New Zealand has to offer could well involve a haunch of venison or two along the way if Dave has anything to do with it...

Day 121 Auckland (Returning the Car)

A long drive today from Waitomo to Auckland and the thought of "Will they, wont they accept the windscreen repair" which the kind people at Jucy Rental did as I passed over the certificate and hurdled the security fence after letting off a stun grenade or two.

Off to the Cityl Lodge hostel where I'd stayed on my arrival to New Zealand. Its a great place to stay except when there are roadworks all through the night which there currently are.

Brrrrrrrr, "Vehicle Reversing"..."Vehicle Reversing" Brrrr, Crash Wallop, well you get the idea.

Day 120 Waitomo (Preparing for Australia)

During my stay in New Zealand I'd often looked in awe from my tent at the sheer luxury of the campsite cabins with their bunk beds, electricity and running water. So what the heck I'd get one to serve as HQ to comfortably pack up my belongings in advance of dropping off the car tomorrow.

In appreciation of borrowing the campsite hoover (the inside of the car resembled a sandy beach) I passed on my beloved tent, bodyboard and fins to the receptionist who was delighted. I then set about cleaning the car and its windscreens. I was not delighted......

As I buffed up the windcreen a chip appeared and clause 21.7.77.8.5 sub clause 14 of the rental agreement said I was not insured and could go to hell. My subconcious already knew this and two villages later I dicivered a glazing firm who could repair the chip rather than replace the whole screen. Cue mexican wave !!


With that I returned to the cabin and packed up those items to be sent home including the dear old wifi laptop which has served me greatly in some beautiful places to write the blog such as Lake Wanaka pictured above. However as I tramp around Oz and Asia the backpack requires to be a lightpack.

Day 119 Waitomo (Caving the Lost World)

"One of the most amazing things you can do in this country" say Lonely Planet and with that I set about the Lost World caving epic adventure.

Mangapu Cave aka "Lost World" is not a cave you can stroll into. The only way to get into it is by abseiling 100 metres (330 feet) down through an opening created when the cave's roof fell in about 20,000 years ago. The Lost World was first discovered in 1906, when two railway surveyors just about fell into it as they looked through a natural window to see a sunlit ferny gully way below and described it as "a lost world, minus the pixies". The history books fail to mention the other quote "no chance of a railway going here then Roddie, lets go and eat our jam peaces i'm starving"

The abseil takes over thirty minutes and is hard on the cobblers if you dont position your harness right before you start ....the guides were quick to stress. Mine were positioned just fine thanks. Following on from that we stopped for lunch careful to sit under a ledge as the occasional cow has been known to drop in.

This would be the last daylight we would see for seven hours and it was a chance for us all to "silouhette". We would go on a fear testing wade past eels and cave spiders. They dont mention that on the brochure but they seemed friendly enough. Also breathtaking were the gloworms throughout the cave.

"Squeezing"

"Rock Climbing"

"Bombing"

"Water"

"Ladders"

Finally we reach the exit and off for a well needed barbecue. An unforgettable experience.

Day 118 Coromandel Town (Railway)

Today was all about visiting the amazing Driving Creek Railway north of Coromandel town built in a 60 acre area of bush over twenty seven years by pottery man Edie Briknell. He is also leaving the estate to the people and is replanting the area with indegionus trees not least the Kaura which were decimated over the last two centuries. One of the few that remains in New Zealand is 2000 yeras old and is amongst the biggest tree in the world.

One feature the trai driver was keen to point out is their bottle retaining walls and encouraged all to contribute!!

I then made the long drive to Waitomo in preparation of perhaps my last but greatest adventure before leaving this island. Tomorrow I challenge my apprehension of heights and confined places with the "Lost World" Epic into Waitomo caves. This begins with a 100 metre abseil into the depths followed by a combination of climbing, spider-walking, inching along narrow rock ledges, wading, swimming and jumping into a subterranean river before climbing out to daylight. Oh and you get to see the glowworms and they get to see you..................

Day 117 Coromandel (Hahei Beach and Alarms)

Today would see me arrive at Hahei beach in the Coromandel region where wild orchids really do grow wild.


The Coromandel is one of the top spots for New Zealanders themselves to holiday and they ish to retain the area as it currently stands and avoid the blight of over development. Good on them.

Shortly before pitching the tent I'd stopped off at nearby Hot Water Beach where at low tide you can hire a spade and dig a hole to bask in the hot thermal water. When I arrived it was high tide. Its all about the timing.

Finally as I slept that night at 2.50 am (and I know this was the time as I awoke "Whats @**&$# going on its 2.50am") the tsunami siren balasted out. As it would turn out later my hunch that it only sounded for twenty seconds signified I could stay in my warm sleeping bag proved luckily ok. As it turns out it was a fire call out signal as distinct from the tsunami which continues indefinately. This did not stop some campers taking off to the hills in their cars and shaking us all up a bit.

Day 116 Papamoa Beach

Ended up staying on another day with Rob and Lou and admired the wee beach huts as I walked down to the surf!

Day 115 Papamoa (Papamoa Beach)

My last day in the wonderful company of Rob and Lou. Thanks folks.



Some final organisations for my flight to Australia next week with the majority of the day......yes you guessed it .....back at the beach!!

DAy 114 Papamoa (Lightening the Load)

With little over a week to go before I leave this wonderful country my thoughts today turned to how I convert my current rucsac comprising four wheels, an engine and a one ton shell of steel back into a 90 litre backpack for Australia and Asia.

With the theory being the lighter the load the lighter the travel I set about making three piles called need, maybe and no. (Good tip Ed). Some quick decisions as surfs up and off I went.

In the evening Rob and Lou took me out for splendid meal at the RSA club which was just the antidote to the appetite I'd built from climbing Papmoa hills with Lou to see the old Maori fortifications and take in the 360 views.

Day 113 Okere Falls to Papamoa (Kayak Kaituna and Swim Papamoa Beach)

One last chance to kayak the Kaituna as Glenn and I raced to the water at seven am. Well more shuffled our way as we had to carry the boats on our shoulders 300 metres or so (note how metric I've gone on these travels).

A good run from eddy to eddy and a stop halfway to play on a wave. With that we feasted on porridge and I thanked Glenn and Mere for an unforgettable stay (especially that frantic swim in the Kaituna). Back onto the road for a drive North for a return visit with Rob and Lou in Papamoa. The surf looked good and I grabbed my chance before they arrived home from work.

Day 112 Okere Falls

Mere as part of her teachings also focuses on nutrition and its links with Whakapapa (geneology). One fascinating book she showed me was the foods most suitable or not suitable for your blood group. Apparently my blood type originated between 15000 BC and 10000 BC as the growing tide of humanity spread beyond the range of the first "hunters" and moved out from settled 'cultivators' communities. For that reason my blood group is termed "nomads". How appropriate on my journey away from the croft I thought!! As I listened to Mere it turns out oats and bananas are well suited to me which was just as well as I tucked into my porridge.

Onto more mundane matters for the rest of the day as I booked my flights for Souteast Asia and Oz. I've kept things flexible at all times on this trip and the old flexibility m'larky came to a head when the online visa application computer screen lit up. "You should allow at least two weeks applying for your Australia visa"............Oh No Danger Island I thought ......its less than two weeks till I fly. All was well though as the kind Australian immigration pinged an "Approved" message back. Phew!

As I returned Mr Meow Meow had made himself comfortable in the van. A hard life that cat has!

Then Glenn's new kayak went under the knife for some fine tuning in preparation for our next outing tomorrow on the Kaituna.......

Day 111 Okere Falls (Kaituna River)

Glenn and my goodself stand on ceremony for a picture of Glenn's new Pyranah Burn kayak before we headout onto the river. Glenn is clearly looking forward to the outing whilst I'm more than a little apprehensive about the mighty Kaituna (translated as River of Much Eeels). I also wonder at this point how I will manage with only one arm (see picture above).

Glenn is a great instructor and before long I was making it from eddy to eddy until....(yes it was all going just too smoothly) we began practicing T rescues. This is where I capsize and whilst under water still in the kayak I use my eyes to watch for Glenns boat come at right angles to mine and the nose bump into me. I then put my hands out of the water and push up on said nose and flip myself upright again.

I managed the first two but when we swapped to my "other" side I completely messed up. I could see the water surface just inches above me and how I wanted to take a breath but to no avail and then I fell out. Not so bad you might think but I now had to swim across a flowing river to make for dry land and empty out my kayak. "Swim hard" Glenn said. Nope it was not working and pretty soon it was bump, submerge, bump, oof, ouuch over the drop in the rapid until completely exhausted still holding my kayak I made it to the far bank.

Glen seemed unpreturbed whilst I felt my protective adrenalin drain from my body. Still all part of the learning process I thought and then for my next challenge to manouvre over my first drop. Glenn gave me the option of just rafting down it with him but I felt ok and setup nicely, sweep stroke and down and through the frothy white wate.............Fantastic and to much releif!!

We did the same run again in the afternoon only without the drama !!

Day 110 Okere Falls (Maori Meeting)

I awoke to paradise that is Glenn and Mere's home here in Okere falls and set about helping them make rady the garage for a Maori meeting Mere was leading. She told me the "Nannies" would disprove of any cobwebs!!

The water tastes good too from a well!!

I then made my way out to Zorb where you go inside a plastic sphere and roll down a hill.

Then a lazy day after that in Rotorua centre before checking out the mighty Kaituna river with Glenn. To give you an idea of Glenn's kayak skills here is one of the "small drops" he goes over.

In the evening Mere kindly invited me to join in on the meeting where I listened to their initiatives albeit lost at times in translation. There are many similarities to Scots culture and tradition with the Maori I thought.

Day 109 Okere Falls (Glenn and Mere's)

I awoke early. Eagerly anticipating a swim before I checked out of the lodge and splish splash splosh . My swimming book tells me water is a thousand times denser than air and effectively massages your muscles. Hence that glowing feeling after the swim. I glowed!

So I bid farewell to Anndion and drove North to the volcanic hotbed that is Rotorua to meet up with Glenn and Mere who I'd met at the New Zealand kayak school. Glenn is an expert kayaker and Mere is from the Hinetapora tribe and at the forefront of safegaurding Maori cullture.
They have a beautiful country home at Okere falls which (surprise, surprise is next to the mighty Kaituna river ....a kayaker dream.)

I received a lovely welcome with Mere applying the hongi.(Maori nose press) and I then stood flabergasted as they pointed to where I would be staying. I'd have my own wee house in their garden!

We sat outside for our meal and were joined by Mere's kids Paora, Susan and Leteisha along with Mr Meow Meow the most relaxed cat in New Zealand.

As evening settled in we got chatting about our respective backgrounds and Mere explained the principle of Whakapapa. Translated this is geneaology and the Maori beleive you need to know your family tree (Whakapapa) as you gain strength from knowing your roots. Also if part of your bloodline is from another country you can effectively go there and feel you have a right to belong.
With that I went to bed wondering did I have New Zealand in my Whakapapa?

Day 108 Wanganui (The Swearing Parrot)

A quick stop into Wellington this morning to get some advice on the forthcoming countries from STA travel who claim "We know because we Go" and this indeed seemed the case. They did know and Maria their agent had gone. Armed with good info and a new Southeast Asia Loneley Planet from the nearby bookshop I made my way not to Vietnam but to New Zealand's Wanganui as I begin heading Northwards again.

In my opnion there is only one place to stay in Wanganui ...the AnnDion lodge following my earlier visit there on the way South. All was good and Dion took it as a real compliment to their hospitality that I chose to stay with them again on my return. So much so he opened me a cool beer on the house and after a blether I made my way to see their parrot Oz ...mainly to check if his language had improved any.....it had not

With that I practiced my swimming and chatted with the other backpackers. Not a tornado in sight....

Day 107 Wellington (Waitangi Day, Ta Papa Museum)

I checked out the civic centre area in Wellington today with its excellant street sculpture including this floating steel sphere...how do they do that?

It seemed uncannily quiet as I drove into Wellington and I was surprised how easy it was to find a parking spot when the Lonely Planet had said it was difficult. It then dawned on me is a national holiday today to commerate the treaty between the British Crown and the Maori leaders back in 1840 which is still in dispute today over its meaning.

So what better day to visit the incredible Ta Papa Museum of New Zealand to learn a bit more about it. I left more confused over the treaty (probably why its under dispute) but the museum was a credit to the Country. I liked the room of a house that simulates an earthquake by shaking you all about and also all the displays about the earths tectonic plates and volcanoes. New Zealand sits right on the Australia and Pacific plate join and thats why its had over eighteen earthquakes/eruptions in the last hundred years.

After the city gallery I took the short journey on the cable car to the botanic gardens and the observatories unusual interactive sundial. You stand on the dial with your back to the sun and hold your arms up. The shadow then casts onto the correct timestone. These people proved it and appreciated my comment its too heavy to carry and much easier to wear a watch.

A busy day and off back to the campsite to in wait for another visit tomorrow to Wellington so I could research my Australia and Southeast Asia trips i.e pick the brains off the excellant STA travel agents. Lets face it these countries are just too big for me to just wander in with the hands in the pockets going where to now then?

Day 106 Wellington (Ferry Crossing)

The ferry company obviously had not received my cancellation message during the night and just after seven m they phoned "Ewen, are you on your way?". We reconvened for the afternoon sail and in a subsequent phonecall to Dad he reassured me as only Dad's can (although you never really know are they making it up) "Dont worry Ewen, all these modern ferries have stabilisers for when its stormy".

Well it turned out fine weather by the afternoon and I admired the Marlborough Sounds (great wine region) as we sailed away from Picton for the North Island.

Only....as any kiwi will tell you and so will the band Crowded House that New Zealand can have "Seven Seasons in One Day" and very quickly it got stormy. I made my way to the cinema in the ferry to dumb my brain (not difficult I admit) from the swell of the ocean. It worked and before I knew it we arrived in Wellington the capital of New Zealand and devoid of campsites. So I made my way fifteen minutes North to an industrial estate in Hutt Valley ...a unique location I'd of thought for such outdoor accommodation?

I then pitched the tent and opened the repair kit from Picton's hardware store to undertake tornado repairs. Now how many campers get to say that in their lifetime?