Day 94 Frans Josef (Glacier Heli Hike)

There are over three thousand glaciers in New Zealand with Frans Josef being amongst the biggest. By a freak of global warming where Australia gets hotter and drier it sends very warm winds across to the West Coast of New Zealand which condense into snow at the mountain top and feed the glaciers so they continue to advance whereas the rest of the worlds retreat.

Swish, swish, swish, swish, swish went the helipcopters blades as we swooped to the uppermost reaches of Frans Josef Glacier into complete isolation and as the pilot pulled some really good "Black Hawk Down" moves. On landing we had the place to ourselves in an iceage wilderness and it was breathtaking.

Wearing crampons for the first time was a ot easier than I expected. Our guide explained we had to walk unatural with them on. What does this mean? Was I about to witness the group skip or dance there way around the ice. No no not at all you walk with your feet a bit wider than shoulder width to stop the spikes catching and you dig your heel in downhill unless you fancy nose diving forward.

Our guide pointed out the steep sloping frozen waterfall section of the flacier which moves quite fast and one of the group asked could we hike up it. The answer was "no its impassible". As if on cue twenty tons of ice broke away with a thunderous crash. "Thats why" said the guide.

Swoop, swoop, swoop, swoop went the blades on take off and we were flying and dipping over mountains as if we were in a hollywood adventure movie and a fitting exit I felt to the majestic Frans Josef Glacier. Long may it advance.

Back onto the horse as I headed North and a quick stop at the pancake rocks at Putakaika before heading on to finally pitch the tent at Westport where as I washed the dishes in the campsite kitchen I got chatting to Polly from Brighton. Polly was about to embark on a beginners kayak course at the New Zealand kayak school to bring her up to speed to keep up with her boyfriend who is into kayaking back in the UK. I'd also been planning checking out the school for a lesson and Polly gave me the leaflet on the intensive four day course. It was a big committment but also a great opportunity. I'd sleep on it and decide in the morning.

As I lay in my tent the Mark Twain quote "Twenty years from now its the things you did not do, rather than the things you did, that you will regret" so I picked up the phone and dialled Mick at the kayak school............