Day 193 Halong Bay (Overnight on a Junk Boat)

Off to Halong Bay today with its thousands of limestone islands. I was part of a group of eight and our junk boat is one of the four hundred (I joke you not) pictured above.

Outstanding scenery but even here the pollution hung about due to so many boats in one reesticted area of the bay. We spent the afternoon kayaking through caves and around the coast.

Then a stop of at a cave first discovered in 1995 by a fisherman seeking shelter from a storm. A lot of Vietnam's history is quite young. The rest of the day we endured the boat crews Vietnamese karakoe whilst we tried to relax on the sundeck. I and a few others took to jumping off the roof of the junk to get away from the cat's wailing. At least until we saw a huge jellyfish.

Day 192 Hanoi

A wander about the mayhem of Hanoi today and a visit to its central lake. Another day of pollution, three hundred and twenty motorbike drivers going "you want moto", various scammers and the usual attempts at short changing you. All part of the travel experience though and provided you keep your wits together you eventually numb to it all.

Day 191 Hue (Citadel, Canary Cages and Deserted Airport))

Today I walked to the outskirts of Hue to see the old walled city. On the way I marvelled at the canary cages hanging from trees. I did not require a canary but the shirt looked ok.

I liked the elephant at the Citadel.

On the way back as it was the day Vietnam celebrated reunification in 1974 there were a lot of street sellers with war memorabilia. I was a bit concerned to see American dog tags amongst it. One tag is supposed to stay with the body and the other sent to the American government. Hopefully these were fakes but if they were then very good ones.

The hotel insisted I go to Hue "International" (the word used in its broadest sense) airport early for my flight to Hanoi. I was faced with a long wait, subjected to Vietnam's answer to Rhianna (without the umbrella), tortourous plastic seats and a diet of Ritz biscuits and peanut m&ms.

Day 190 Hue (Perfume River and Emperors Tombs)

A dragon boat (well more like a floating greenhouse) up the Perfume river today to see the Emporer's tombs.
To keep the perfume river perfumed here is the world's first river hoover.

First stop a rather fine pagoda.


Next stop the car belonging to the most venerable Thich Quang Doc who went from the pagoda to the intersection of Phon dinh Phung street and Le van Duyet street on June 11 in 1963 in Saigon. As soon as he got out of the car the most venerable sat down in the lotus position and burnt himself to death to protest against Ngo dinh Diem regime s policies of discriminating against Bhuddists and violating religious freedom.
The tomb and temple locations were set in peaceful surroundings (two thousand tourists excluded) and here the Emporers would sit with their concubines. We are only talking eighteenth century so not that long ago.

The turtle features a lot. Known as a symbol of longevity and for carrying the first book to the people representing higher education.

On the way back down the river as is often the case and half the fun in Asia the boat broke down.

Not to worry the crew swam to shore (smart move) and hit the propeller with a big hammer. It worked and home we listed.

Day 189 Hue (Cyclo Scammer)

Took the life threatining bus journey to reach the city of Hue today and thought it was about time I tried a cyclo. Fully expecting a scam at any time during the journey it finally arrived in thinking I was new to the exchange rate. He increased it tenfold. I laughed, he laughed and the correct price was paid plus a thumbs up for the camera. I wonder how many tourists a day he catches with that one?

Then the usual challenge of crossing the street in Vietnam to make ready for tomorrows boat trip on the Perfume river...I wonder what scent it will carry....Eua de Tomcat possibly?

Day 188 Hoi An (Cookery Course)

Today I went for a cookery course. All the ingredients were in place and I wrote the recipes down as I went along (Ross I'll pass them on ...you should manage it).


It had never ocurred to me at breakfast this morning that within two hours I'd be expected to eat the five or so courses created by the cooking course. I thought about explaining to my instructer Snow (who has never seen snow) that I'd had two omelettes and a baugette already this morning. However that would have been disrespectful so I ploughed ahead and finished the meal. Elasticated shorts anyone?

I decided to walk it off by visiting the market. No rush on the banana stall as you can see.


There are a lot of improvement works going on and the concrete breaking works took a lot of watching.

Then back to the hotel for a swim before spending the evening at the tailors getting final adjustments made. My favourite part of the experience was shoes made on the spot...so comfy.


The whole family chips in as darkness falls and we all want to get home.

Day 187 Hoi An (Old District, Tailors and Art)

"Goooooood Morning Vietnam". An early start to catch the plane to the world heritage city of Hoi An.

The hotel receptionist was close to a high score on some computer game when I arrived. I took my seat next to the screen and appluaded after the three million score was surpassed.

The old streets are closed to traffic three times a week and for once I experienced Vietnam without its millions of motos (surely the work of Satan).

Hoi An is renowned for its tailor shops. I hoped I'd picked a good one!

Time to relax in one of the old resteraunts by the river.

Then with my city heritage ticket in hand I went around Hoi An's old district to see various old houses. You just walk in. Here we have one of the few confuscious cups remaining. Confuscious preached everything in moderation (after having been to one to many cheildhs in Sutherland). If you fill his cup past eighty percent the tea simply pours out a hole and your left with nothing!

Hoi An is also developing a reputation for good art galleries in the west part of the old district. I could not resist a few pictures myself and they roll the canvas up and put it in a plastic waste pipe for fear it will crush in the rucksack.

On my way back to the hotel I met this character who was happy to be photographed provided he could adopt the pose of a skater dude..